First-Time Expectations Travelling to Israel

The Uniqueness of Israel

Israel ... Land of the Bible ... Land of Faith ... The Holy Land is revered throughout recorded history as the cradle of monotheistic religion. For a person of faith whose beliefs are rooted in the Bible, there is no place on earth like the Holy Land. In this narrow strip of land lies the source of religious belief of much of mankind.

The Holy Land's distinctiveness lies in its strategic geographical position. Situated on a small land bridge connecting Africa and Asia, Israel serves as the only passage between the two continents. Anyone aiming to dominate the ancient, strategic trade routes or conquer the known world needed to seize and govern Israel. Consequently, this region has frequently been a battleground, with successive waves of conquerors invading it. Israel has witnessed more wars and events than any other nation on the planet.

God positioned Israel in its unique location to influence the world and be on “Center Stage” so all of creation would know that He alone is God.

Tempering the Expectations

For nearly 2,000 years, Christian visitors from all over the world have come to the Holy Land, the land of their spiritual heritage. With Bible in hand, they have walked the places Jesus walked and prayed in the places He preached, prayed, and performed miracles. For Christians, Israel is a place like no other. It provides them a one-of-a-kind opportunity to experience the land of the Bible, to deepen their faith, and to be spiritually transformed for a lifetime.

However, some visitors to Israel are often surprised and even repulsed by what they witness at certain holy sites. Many holy sites feature monuments, churches, or basilicas with a distinctly Catholic, Arabic, or Middle Eastern style which are vastly different from what some visitors are accustomed to seeing, or what they expected to find. In addition, it is likely a visitor will encounter other people visiting the Holy Land from different countries who are worshipping and kissing some of the adornments on these sites.

Because of these possible adverse reactions, it is best to prepare oneself with some background and history about how these sacred sites have been preserved so that the sightseeing experience can be as enjoyable as possible.

A Brief History

In 70 AD, the Roman general Titus led a siege of Jerusalem that destroyed the city and the Second Temple. After its destruction, Jerusalem, for the most part, lay in ruins for the next 60 years. Hadrian (Publius Aelius Hadrianus) became the Roman emperor in AD 117. In AD 130, Hadrian visited Judea on his way to Egypt and announced his decision to erase the Jewish identity and religion in the region and make Jerusalem an idolatrous Roman city in his own honor.

Ultimately, Hadrian changed the orientation of Jerusalem, renamed it Aelia Capitolina, and restricted Jewish access to the city. Around 132 AD, there was a final Jewish revolt called the Bar Kokhba led by Simon bar Kosiba (later known as Bar Kokhba). This Jewish uprising was eventually put down by the Romans in 135 AD, killing more than a half million Jews during the revolt. In the past, conflicting accounts in ancient sources have led scholars to debate whether Aelia Capitolina’s foundation was a cause or a consequence of the Bar Kokhba revolt. However, the discovery of Aelia Capitolina coins struck before the revolt, found in a building abandoned prior to the uprising and in coin hoards from Bar Kokhba refuge caves, has provided strong archaeological evidence that the city's foundation preceded the revolt.

Hadrian desecrated the presumed places of the crucifixion and resurrection, the birthplace of Christ, and many other significant Holy Land sites. Hadrian built a large temple dedicated to Jupiter on the Temple Mount. He raised up a blasphemous memorial to his own deification in the form of an equestrian statue which he placed over the former location of the Jewish temple’s Holy of Holies. Over a rock-cut tomb presumed to be that of Christ, Hadrian built a temple of Venus (Aphrodite), an ancient goddess of sexual love and beauty. At the same time, he ordered a grove dedicated to the pagan god Adonis to be planted around the cave of Bethlehem. Hadrian enjoyed participating in orgies at idolatrous festivals and was deeply involved in witchcraft and occult ceremonies. Ironically, Hadrian’s attempts to replace Christian worship at these sites helped to preserve their identity for future generations to uncover.

Eventually, in 313 AD, a major change happened in the Roman Empire when Emperor Constantine legalized Christianity. Later, Constantine’s mother, Helena, made a trip to the Holy Land to build churches over the areas surrounding the main events of Christ’s life. She built the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, the Church of the Ascension (now Pater Noster Church) on the Mount of Olives, the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth, the Basilica in the Garden of Gethsemane, and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Constantine had the temples Hadrian erected to Jupiter and Venus demolished to make way for the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. There were others (Armenians, Russians, Greeks, etc.) as well that came to the Holy Land to build churches, monuments, and basilicas on various holy sites.

Present State of Sacred Sites

It would be wonderful if the Holy Land was the same as it was 2,000 years ago when Christ walked its paths, or 4,000 years ago when Abraham traversed its hillsides and valleys, but there have been many changes that have taken place during this time span. It’s hard for us to understand, but 4,000 or even 2,000 years is a long time! Because of its strategic location in the world, no other country has had as many kingdoms occupy it, or as many battles fought on its soil, as Israel. This, along with time, has led to many changes in Israel and its holy sites.

The good news is that many of the biblical sites are in their natural state and appear much the same as they did when the events that happened there occurred. Other sites have had monuments, churches, or basilicas built near, or on them and are not exactly as they appeared when the events that occurred there happened.  Also, many sites have had many events happen in one spot over thousands of years, so it would be impossible to have each event preserved just the way it happened.

Many of these monuments, churches, or basilicas will have a Catholic, Arabic, or Mid-Eastern style and a visitor might disagree with the religious backgrounds of some of these sites. But if it hadn't been for those who preserved the biblical sites, they likely would have had other buildings, roads, and infrastructure built over them and been lost to the world forever. Many of these early pilgrims felt the same awe and emotion that we feel when we see the Holy Land and we certainly can’t fault them for this.

Because of all the adornments and construction over the centuries, it's hard to imagine how some of these places would have looked in their original setting. However, the years of activity and tradition at these holy sites give greater weight to their authenticity. And while we might disagree with the decorations and atmosphere of these places, we should appreciate and admire all the devotion and sacrifice made to preserve them.

Pinpointing the Location of Sacred Sites

When it comes to pinpointing sacred Biblical sites in the Holy Land, sometimes the most certain thing about the historical location is the uncertainty. There is a theory that following Jesus’ ascension to Heaven, a group of “Jewish Christians” remained in Jerusalem and Galilee, and perpetuated memories of the meaningful locations. However, there is scant evidence (archaeological or otherwise) that Christians expressed any interest in or veneration for historically sacred sites before the fourth century. And though we can applaud Constantine and his mother Helena for their restoration and preservation work in the Holy Land, Helena likely relied on locals and the bishop of Jerusalem for location identification. It is possible that some of the locations were invented whether out of refusal to admit ignorance, or the desire to delight their distinguished guest.

Following the “Constantine revolution,” a sort of local patriotism seems to have emerged in Christian Jerusalem. Attempts to locate holy places and to adjust them to the narrative of the Gospel began with the bishops of Jerusalem Macarius and Cyrill in the mid-fourth century. It was during their officiation that the main holy sites in Jerusalem were developed, followed by the surrounding areas such as Bethlehem and Galilee. Around 300 A.D., Eusebius of Caesarea compiled the “Onomasticon” – a list of the places mentioned in the Bible (both Old and New Testaments). It is likely that lists of the sacred places in the Holy Land drew inspiration from this work that the faithful later treated like a Lonely Planet travel guide. Its inspiration may be traced on the Madaba Map (late sixth century) where the Greek citation beside the places on the map were taken from this work. The bottom line is that, apparently, proper Christian pilgrimage only developed after the identification of holy sites in the early fourth century, and whether their identification is accurate is a matter of faith.

Today, there are four locations (all of them at or near the western foot of the Mount of Olives) officially claimed by different groups to be the Garden of Gethsemane, the place where Jesus prayed on the night He was betrayed. The site of Jesus' crucifixion and the Tomb of Jesus are traditionally located in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre; however, Gordon’s Calvary (Skull Hill) and the adjacent Garden Tomb is an alternative site considered by some Protestant Christians to be authentic, while others claim that all the above are incorrect. Similar disputes exist for the exact birthplace of Christ, the tomb of King David, and just about every other Biblical site you can name.

Saint Jerome (c.347-420), a Dalmatian-born priest and scholar who lived in the Holy Land for more than 36 years and is best known for his translation of the Bible from Hebrew and Greek into Latin, declared: “We cannot tie down to one small portion of the earth Him whom heaven itself is unable to contain.” In the end, it’s not the precise location or the present appearance that really matters – it’s the event the site commemorates!

Closing Thoughts

Generally, Americans show a lot of interest in foreign historic sites due to a fascination with ancient civilizations, iconic architecture, and human history. These destinations offer a unique connection to the past, allowing visitors to explore sites that have shaped world cultures and provide insight into diverse historical periods and peoples.

While in the Holy Land, a visitor will see things as old as 6,000 years! Since the United States as a nation was founded in 1776, many U.S. historical sites are significantly "younger" compared to the thousands of years of history found in other countries. So, Americans travelling abroad to see the historic and sacred sites should be prepared for significant cultural differences.

It’s important to note that we, from a modern mindset, have different views and tastes regarding building styles. Because to us, something 200-400 years old might seem ancient, we need to realize that seeing something 1,500 years old has an entirely different architectural look and sense to it than what we’re accustomed to seeing.

Concerning the present appearance of sacred sites, consider the following:

• Entering these churches, monuments, and basilicas to see these holy sites doesn’t mean we are in any way embracing and/or accepting their religious beliefs.

  
  

• While the style, religious background, and adornments might not be suitable to our taste, the motives of those who preserved these sites seem to be noble and honorable. As you see these sites, you will understand why these early pilgrims wanted to preserve them.

Concerning the location of sacred sites, it is best for a visitor to view them with an outlook like: “Although I can’t always identify precisely where an event occurred, I’m in the vicinity of it and can use the visual cues to remember, honor, and celebrate these great events that happened!”

Hopefully, this information is helpful and will allow Christian visitors to get the most out of their Holy Land experience.